Western South Africa birding, Mar 2018

As I've published a complete and formal trip report on CloudBirders.com, rather than re-hash our story , I'm just adding the link to the trip report here.

Links

• List of birds
• CloudBirders.com report

Golden Gate hiking and birding, Apr 2012

Links

• List of birds

Friday, 6 April
After spending the night at Nicola’s parentes, we left at 5am, and drove without incident through fairly heavy Easter traffic to Golden Gate. We arrived at about 10am, checked in at Reception and then drove down to the stables where we parked the car. It was a very pleasant day and with such a short walk to the hut before us, we walked slowly and birded along the way, picking up Bokmakierie, Drakensberg prinia, African red-eyed bulbul, Yellow-billed duck, Ground woodpecker, Red-winged starling and Cape rock-thrush. We arrived at the hut before noon but had an early bite to eat before snoozing the rest of the afternoon. Just before 4pm another couple showed up after completing the normal Day 1 of the Ribbok trail. An early dinner was followed by early bed.

Saturday, 7 April
We rose at 5am, had some oats, fruit and tea for breakfast, packed up all our stuff and left just before 6am. Hiding my pack with all our camping and sleeping gear in the bushes about 50m up the track, we only carried Nicola's pack with water, lunch and rain gear. As the sun started glinting off the highest rock bands of Ribbok kop, we turned off the path about 1km from the hut and started climbing up a spur leading to the Swartkop ridge. We made steady progress up the ridge and had our first rest for the day at 2265m, halfway up the spur. Nicola had carried the pack up to this point so I took over as the gradient steepened. As the ridge climbed higher we started angling off towards Snow hill and finally gained the main Swartkop ridge on the saddle just below Snow hill. It was about 09:30 so we had gained a fair amount of height but now the tricky bit started. First climbing slowly higher as we traversed the norther flanks of Snow Hill, we reached a prominent buttress between Snow hill and Ribbok kop and climbed just below its foot onto the northern flank of the saddle between the two summits. The going was tough as the slopes were steep and the grass tall, making it very difficult to see where we were walking. A short but exposed climb up a boulder got us onto the grassy slope in between the second and third rock bands – we were almost there! The gradient on the grass slope was steep and a sheer drop below made for slow and careful walking, but just after 10:30 we reached the steep gully breaking through the last two rock bands. Holding onto thorny plants and spiky grasses, we scrambled up the gully, easily at an angle greater than 50 degrees. Finally reaching the top of the fourth rock band, it was an easy scramble for the last 100m or so to finally reach the summit of Ribbok kop (2829m) at 11:15. Wow! What a view from the top! The entire Golden Gate and eastern Free State ranges to the north, the Caledon valley, Drakensberg and Malutis to the South, and my nemesis conquered after at least 5 attempts – it was fantastic to be up there! But we had a very long way to go still, so after 15 minutes rest, a few mouths full of Game, an apple and half a tomato each, we left. The climb down the gully was tough but we climbed down steadily and soon broke through the bottom rock band. There was still some tough down climbing on the steep upper slopes until we reached the main ridge leading down into the valley where the Ribbok Trail’s path ran. At about 2pm we finally reached the path and much easier walking, but by now the legs and feet were sore so we kept a moderate pace until we reached the hut and our hidden bag some time after 3pm. A large group of hikers had arrived to occupy the hut so we stayed just long enough for a quick splash of water in the face, saddled the bags and then walked out the 3km back to the stables. At 16:30 we were back, drove up to Reception and booked a campsite for the night. We decided not to waste time with the tent and just slept in the car after beetroot, Salticrax and tea for dinner.

Sunday, 8 April
A few drops of rain roused us from our sleep and since dawn had already begun, we quickly packed up the car and did some birding on the way out to Harrismith. It was blustery with heavy cloud moving in so few birds were around. Even so, Long-tailed widow, Drakensberg prinia, Cape rock-thrush, Ground woodpecker, a lone Black harrier, Grey crowned crane and Southern bald ibis were all seen before we left the park. In Harrismith we had a quick Wimpy breakfast before birding the lark and crane circuits, picking up a few common birds but also African snipe, Botha's and Spike-heeled larks, Black heron and a whole field full of Blue cranes. Around 2pm we checked into our accommodation and spent the remainder of the day trying to move as little as possible - the muscles have stiffened up nicely and walking was a painful affair.

Monday, 9 April
Hoping to miss most of the Easter traffic, we left before 7am and drove comfortably and without problems back home, first collecting Nicola's cats at her parents and then arriving back in Middelburg at noon.

It's been more than 10 years since I first saw Ribbok kop and thought it would be magnificent to climb. Several attempts have been thwarted by weather, illness and laziness, but now, finally, I've done it! And what a great peak to do, with a 360 view all around, unbelievably good weather, and Nicola making it to the top as well - a truly memorable day in the mountains!

Ribbok kop attempt (hiking and birding) Feb 2011

At 14:25 we left Middelburg and drove via Bethal to Standerton. This section of road was OK but on the way to Vrede, the surface got progressively worse and in all, 6 Stop/Go sections hindered us from making good time. We eventually arrived in Golden Gate around 19:30 and greeted all the "old "members and two "new" members, Petra and Sylvia. We quickly pitched my 3-man tent, had some dinner and stood around talking until about 9pm when we headed for bed.

Day 1 (12 Feb): At 5am my alarm went off and we lay dozing for a short while before getting up. We had a quick breakfast and by 6am, Brian gave us a lift down to the Stables. We immediately started walking towards the hut but at the very first stream we got damp toes crossing it. It was a nice easy walk through to the hut but in places even the jeep track was so overgrown that we had to shield our eyes as we walked through 3m tall grass. We reached the hut just before 07:30, had a quick break and then headed up the valley. Three river crossings in quick succession, coupled with heavy morning dew, soaked us all to the bone. The track disappeared completely after the fourth crossing and we bashed our way through a short section of thick grass and stunted Ouhout trees to reach the slope on the true left. Gordon and I decided that it would be easier for us to head for the top of the ridge running towards Snowhill, than trying to stick to the path in the valley. We stopped at a small side stream to fill our water bottles and off we went. Gordon soon took the lead but I started dragging behind, feeling a bit nauseous and dizzy. After climbing about 200m I started feeling worse and was barely able to make 10m at a time before needing a rest. Even after resting, drinking water and having a juicy plum, I kept on collapsing after 10-15m of climbing. This did not bode well. I then decided to rather abort my own attempt at Ribbok kop. I dropped my pack and tried to catch up to Gordon who was a long way ahead by now. At last I was able to get his attention and got him to come back towards me. I explained the situation and that Nicola and I will be returning to the hut but he can still have a go at  Ribbok kop if he wants. He agreed and dropped his pack on the spot. I took the two pieces of tent he was carrying and then walked back to where Nicola was waiting by my pack. We returned back to the hut where we rested and read the rest of the afternoon. I only started feeling better later that evening.

George was the first to arrive around 2pm and not long after the rest of our group also traipsed in. They were surprised to see us and explained they also had a tough and hot day’s walking behind them. Another two people arrived some time later – a father and young daughter; we opened up space in our room for them to sleep. Gordon showed up at 4pm looking tired but triumphant – he made it! He showed us some pics of the climb and explained how he went about it – it all made me really sad that I couldn’t do it this time but also more determined to return and get this one under my belt. Around 17:30 we started making dinner. Gordon forgot the packet of bacon he was supposed to bring but luckily we had some spare tuna which we added to the tomato/onion mix with pasta.

Day 2 (13 Feb): We were up early again. Gordon wanted to complete the second day’s hike but Nicola and I were now keen to go back and drive home since we had a much longer drive than everyone else. Since Gordon’s stuff was in our car back at Glen Reenen we would have to wait for him to finish. So Gordon set off early to try and get back as soon as possible. Nicola and I didn’t dawdle and by 06:30 we were hiking back to the Stables on our own. We got to the road and started the 4km walk back to Glen Reenen. We reached  the camp around 08:30, had a quick shower and then drove around to do some birding while we waited for Gordon. Just before 11am we were back at the campsite and had something to eat while reading. Heavy clouds had started building up in the south and a few spots of rain also fell – we were getting a bit worried when Gordon had not showed up by 11:30. We drove up the first loop road to see if we could see him coming down off the ridge from Generaals kop but couldn’t find him at all. Back at the camp again I walked up to the chalets to see if I can see him coming from the dam but again nothing. I then went to the bathroom and when I got out, saw Gordon just having a sit at the car with Nicola – it was just after noon. We passed all Gordon’s stuff to him and immediately headed back, eventually arriving home just before 18:00.

Although we got some exercise for the weekend, it was very disappointing for me not to achieve the summit of Ribbok kop like Gordon did. But we'll be back!