Monk's Cowl peaks (Drakensberg) Jun 2006

After work, I picked Gordon up at his home and we drove to Bergville where we spent the night at the tennis court.

Day 1 (10 June): We left Bergville before 6am and were at Monk’s Cowl just after 7am. We paid, signed in and started hiking just before 8am. Immediately we started climbing up the trail towards the Sphinx. Our packs were not too heavy and without realizing it, we were making very good time. We stopped for a breather at the top of the Sphinx and then carried on to the first water crossing below Verkykerkop, already on top of the Little Berg. A dog had started following us soon after we left and kept bounding past us, chasing after rabbits and rats. Just before 10am we reached Blind Man’s Corner and just around the corner we dropped our packs 50m above the campsite, out of view from the contour path. We were ecstatic that we got there so quickly but not quite sure what to expect higher up on Sterkhorn. Packing water, lunch, camera, GPS, warm clothes, map and route description, we left at about 10:15. I was happy to see that the track up Sterkhorn was indeed a good one and pretty easy to follow. The only difficulty was that the path was exceptionally steep and the dirt very loose in places. Stopping often for breathers we finally stopped for an early lunch at around 11:30 at an altitude of 2795m. The dog was still with us and tried in vain to dig for rats under the rocks. After lunch we started to save water as both of us were starting to run low. The path continued steeply up the east ridge until finally ascending to a small saddle above 2850m. Doing some scrambling above the saddle got us onto a ledge that traversed around to the south where a wormhole led to the summit ridge. Here the dog finally gave up following us and we clambered onto the small summit with no little elation. It was a fantastic view all around and the middle and south summits were barely meters away. Behind Sterkhorn we could see Cathkin and Monks Cowl. To the north we could see the entire Cathedral range and the Amphitheatre peaks beyond. To the south, Giant’s Castle just poked its nose out on the horizon. We stayed for at least 20 minutes, relishing the view and watching some Cape vultures soaring on the thermals. We finally started descending and picked the dog up again below the wormhole. I stuck to the track on the descent and made good time. Gordon was more careful on the way down but we joined up again during two rest stops. We were back at the campsite at 3pm and rested a while before starting to set up camp. At 4pm we started cooking. I made a similar slop to what Rob made on the guided traverse earlier the year: onions and peppers fried with bully beef, adding Smash until thick. It went down well and we even spared a little for the dog, who still hadn’t left us. After dinner we settled into our sleeping bags. We didn’t pitch the tents and figured the trees would protect us from frost during the night.

Day 2 (11 June): It wasn’t cold at all during the night, having dropped only to 0.4 degrees. Which was a good thing for the dog as I don’t think it would have survived temperatures much below zero. We ate and packed up quickly. At 07:30 we were walking. Having thought about climbing Turret and/or Amphlett the previous day, I gave up the idea after seeing the peaks from the top of Sterkhorn. Instead I aimed to climb Matterhorn, at least 3km distant from the path leading down from Blind Man’s Corner. We quickly got to the first stream running down into the valley where we sat the previous day. We dropped the packs and started climbing Verkykerskop, which was immediately in front of us. Although steep, we got to the summit quickly, where a white cross was also plunged into a cairn like at the top of Sterkhorn. We took a couple of pictures before descending down to a track we could see running through a burned patch of grass. The track turned out to be a good path. As Matterhorn drew nearer, the track disappeared and the last few hundred meters we had to struggle through thick grass. We got to the trig beacon at 09:15, took a GPS reading and photos and then started walking back. I was back at the packs at exactly 10am with Gordon about 5 minutes behind me. With the packs back on our backs we walked down the last 3km. We stopped quickly for a rest at the Sphinx but I went ahead after that. The dog came running with me but I lost it as I walked through the last forest above Monks Cowl. Back at the car I went for a shower and Gordon arrived shortly after me.

Rhebok hiking trail (Drakensberg) Jun 2006

I drove to George on Friday afternoon where Pam picked us up just after 2pm. We stopped in Bethlehem for dinner and arrived at Glen Reenen campsite in the dark. I pitched my tent on a concrete slab while George helped Pam to pitch his tent next to mine on the grass. Eddy and Shirley showed up about half an hour later and pitched their tent not far from ours. Another group that was going to hike Rhebok as well showed up around midnight.

Day 1 (3 June): It was cold when we got up and clouds hung low over the mushroom rocks above us. A chilly breeze was blowing but it was obvious that stronger winds were driving the clouds in the higher atmosphere. We had breakfast and took down the tents quickly. Eddy chatted briefly to the other group before we left at 08:05. With the idea in my head to climb one of the peaks along the way, I steamed up the track to the top of Sentinel in record time. At the top it was freezing cold and the wind made life rather miserable – I decided to put my rain pants on. Back on the track I walked at a decent pace but waited at the top of a rise when I could see what looked to be Spitskop. Eddy arrived and we took a couple of pictures before moving on. I pulled away again from the others and crossed the stream at the backside of the trail with no-one in sight. After finding a spot from where I thought of climbing Spitskop, I waited for about 20 minutes, thinking that Eddy wanted to climb it with me. However, no one showed up so I eventually decided to go ahead alone. Leaving my pack initially I quickly realized the path still climbed a fair amount before easing off so I carried my pack a further 500m along the trail where I finally left it with a note to the rest of when I intend to be back. It was rather cold with the stiff breeze still blowing when I started climbing. The grass slope above me was very steep but after about 150m of altitude gain, it eased off and I could ascend the ridge more comfortably. As I got higher the wind picked up and heavy mist enshrouded the peaks. I knew I was below a summit with a trig beacon on it and aimed for that first, even though I couldn’t see the top. The ridge narrowed down to a tapered summit and when I reached the trig beacon (nr 229) I was glad I did the climb. However, I couldn’t see Spitskop at all and I wasn’t sure if I should attempt it. A fence leading off down the ridge and back to another summit in the direction of Spitskop made me hopeful that I can follow the fence as a handrail. The wind howled over the summit ridge, probably doing about 80km/hour and it cut through my fleece. At the summit of the next bump I realized Spitskop was way too far off to make it within my set turn-around time. Besides, the weather was distinctly unpleasant. I decided to head back. I didn’t realize how steep the ridge above the path was until I descended it back to my pack. The others had gone past and scribbled a note to that effect – I saw them disappearing over a distant ridge as I picked my pack up. I made good progress following them and caught up as they were descending to the Wilgenhof youth centre. We sat here for lunch. Just after lunch we were lucky to spot two Ground woodpeckers – a new species for me! We carried on until the path started fading again close to the river and road. We picked it up close to the gate and then started the last 3km slog to the hut. I got ahead and aimed to get to the hut to get some water that I have missed for the last 4km or so. I got to the hut at 14:15 and the rest were not far behind. We annexed one of the three 6-bed rooms and made ourselves comfortable. It had cleared a little from the morning overcast but despite the sun breaking through more often than not, the wind still made it very cold. Not long after 3pm we started the fire and soon had a decent blaze going. I had some pork sausages and heated some herb rolls for dinner. We were a little worried about the other group when by 5pm they still haven’t showed up. I walked down the road to have a look and spotted the front runners in the distance. The first ones arrived at 17:15 but the last ones only came in in the dark. We learned that it was their first hike and looking at the axe, 1.5 litre milk, D-cell torches and butchery they carried along, we agreed. We were also shocked when one guy told us he was carrying 60kg! Thinking it through though I calculated that he could not possibly carry that much as it was impossible to load a backpack with that weight unless you used rocks or water. We were in bed early and had a good night’s sleep. Temperature outside dropped to -3.6 during the night

Day 2 (4 June): The rest of the crowd seemed to intend an early start when they got out of bed by 6am already. George and I snoozed a while longer before getting up. Because no-one really faffed, we were on our way at 07:25. I got ahead again and soon had my boots covered in frost. In a few places I noticed that even the river had frozen during the night. It had also cleared beautifully and the wind was gone. I desperately wanted to climb Ribbok Kop, so I kept a good pace once again up the valley. In a few places the path was virtually non-existent and I lost it once approaching a high river bank. I had to backtrack down a slope to pick it up again on the other side but then I steamed off once more. Due to the north-south orientation of the valley it was still in shade late in the morning and I was still wearing my fleece when I climbed into the sun on a ridge. Here I lost the path again and ended up on a steep grass slope on the true left of the valley. At some point I noticed the path snaking upwards low in the valley beneath me and decided to forego the path and head straight up. I had a few interesting patches of steep slope and rock to deal with before I got on a lovely gentle slope leading up to the saddle. Here I joined up with the path again and soon I was climbing the last little bit to the top. Where the path aimed of towards Generaalskop I left my pack, had a sip of water, put on my rain jacket and headed to Ribbokkop. It was completely clear all round: I could see Devil’s tooth and Sentinel in the distance and a few patches of snow high up in the Malutis. Having another look at Ribbokkop, I distinctly recall the last time I also had a look at it: a nasty looking rock band ran across the entire eastern face and it was pretty obvious I wouldn’t get past it. I decided to have a closer look though and walked next to the fence to the summit of the neighboring hill. On the way I spotted the rest of the group inching up the valley floor as well as three rhebok running away from me. At the summit I rested a while and thought about how I should approach the peak. I realized that doing a circular day from the hut would be much better, summitting Swartkop first, then continuing on the ridge to Snow Hill and then attempt Ribbok Kop from the west or southwest. I then walked back to my pack where the others arrived not long after. We had a quick break before ascending the final slope below Generaalskop. Feeling that I’ve done enough climbing for the weekend, I shirked going up Generaalskop but Shirley and Eddy decided to go and would come down the opposite ridge where we were to wait for them. George, Pam and I rounded the bottom slopes and sat on a grassy plain to have lunch. Although it was bright and clear, the wind had picked up slightly again and it was rather chilly. Having waited for quite some time and not seeing Eddy and Shirley, I walked off towards our destination and spotted them crossing a ridge in the distance. It looked like they were heading in the wrong direction and I sped off after them with George and Pam in tow. I joined up with them and waited while they had a quick lunch. When Pam and George caught up we were off again. Going up and down along the sharp ridge we soon made our final descent towards the dam. I was in front and crossed beyond the dam wall with my feet aching badly. The last few hundred metres I walked at a fast pace and was happy to see Glen Reenen campsite. I had a wonderful shower but still waited another 15 minutes or so before the others came in. All had a shower and coke before heading back home.