Thabaphaswa hiking trail Feb 2010

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I picked Nicola up from her parents place, driving without incident north on the N1 until we reached Potgietersrus (Mokopane). We arrived in the dark and walked up to our hut in complete darkness. We dumped our stuff in front of our ridiculously small hut (Huilboerboon) – cupboard sized, just large enough to fit the mattresses. Then I heard Shirley’s voice and soon she explained the rest of them were higher up at another hut as they arrived in pouring rain and couldn’t use the braai area at our hut. The higher hut didn't really have space for us so we left our stuff there and joined the rest of the group at their hut for a late dinner.

After a restless night, plagued by mozzies, we ate early and met the others at their hut at 07:30. The trail started by climbing immediately in a large zig-zag on the hill west of our huts. The trail was reasonably well cut and weed killer was obviously used too. The weather was cloudy and warm but very pleasant to hike in. We soon overtook a second group of hikers and met them again when we rested at the summit of the trail (around 1680m). The views were quite pretty but we were severely distracted by some serious grooming caused by some of the worst blackjack infestations I’ve seen in a long time. The trail descended the hill again and soon we were walking back towards camp, arriving just before noon back at the camp. The showers were really good now that the sun was shining and we spent the rest of the afternoon chatting at the upper hut. A Spotted Bush snake and Yellow-fronted tinkerbird provided entertainment and the cut Eddie received on his knee when he tumbled down a large boulder received a lot of attention. The fire was started at 4pm, dinner consisting of flat beans, courgettes and chicken kebabs. Just before it became completely dark, Nicola and I walked back to our hut. Unfortunately, even closing the door as tight as possible and rubbing Peaceful sleep all over Nicola, didn’t deter the mosquitoes at all and we had another bad night.

When we got up the next morning we were tired and decided not to hike, but rather go do some birding at the nearby Percy Fyfe nature reserve. We arrived before a locked gate with no obvious signs of life and then turned around and went back home. The trail itself is not badly laid out and it was an enjoyable weekend, despite the blackjack and khakibos infestations.

Maluticaves hiking trail Feb 2010

On Friday we drove through to Phuthaditjaba, capital of Qwa-Qwa and had to phone George (who was already at the hut) numerous times to get directions to the hut. We arrived before 9pm and were soon asleep. Saturday morning we were up and away early, first traversing around a hill to the north before dropping down to the first cave systems the area is known for. Wetsi cave is well used by locals for the initiation rituals of young boys and is certainly large enough to host more than a 100 souls. Exiting the caves of the sandstone outcrops, we started climbing next to a small stream. The path disappeared in a lush stand of chichi ("Ouhout") but after a 30 minute search and battle, Brian eventually located another footprint. Soon though we lost the trail again over open grasslands full of cattle but our noses led us upwards where we eventually found the trail again. On the highest saddle of the day's trail we rested for lunch and watched the clouds building immediately east of us. With lightning and thunder spurring us on, we sped down the hill and arrived at Mkhondo hut at about 1pm. Although there was water this time (last night's hut didn't have any water), there was no gas and it was a good thing Brian packed his stove. Before the storm broke, we collected some dry fire wood lying around and kept it dry on the verandah. The storm eventually broke and we played cards while the hail and rain drummed on the roof. At 4pm it was over and we started a small fire for the few of us who were having a braai. As we sat down to early dinner we were treated to hundreds of swifts (mainly Alpine and Little) having their dinner of flying termites, swarming after the rain. We headed for bed early.

Skies were clear when we started hiking at 7am. The trail stuck to the river and we followed it easily until it started criss-crossing the river. Then it was shoes off and wading time. The little canyon the river was forming cut deeper the lower we went and before long we were climbing up the sloped towards another set of caves. Unfortunately the path was so completely overgrown here that only a severe struggle got us to the caves at which time we were getting a bit fed-up with the poor maintenance on the trail. Beyond the caves the trail contoured for a while before ascending again to the top of a ridge from where we could see Phuthaditjaba again. It was hot and humid and we were eager to get to the hut. It was therefore very frustrating when we saw the hut and still contoured for another 45 minutes before the path descended into the valley below. It was now high noon and at the last river crossing we stopped for a quick bite to eat. At this point George was off in front, with Eddie, Shirley and Brian still a little behind Nicola and I. The three of them just reached the river when we got up and started the nasty climb to the hut. Halfway up the gully I lost the path in ridiculously thick growth and had to get instructions from George whom we could see a little higher up. Nicola and I battled to a cave where we had a refreshing rest in the shade before carrying on. Outside the cave however, the footprints disappeared completely and we relied on common sense and a GPS bearing to get us back to the hut. We got there shortly after George at 13:30. We wanted to wait for the others to get back safely but were more desperate to get home as we, and especially Nicola had a much longer distance to drive than the others. So we packed up and left, cooling down in the car's aircon. Half an hour later we phoned George who confirmed that Shirley and Brian have just arrived with Eddie short on their heels. Relieved and tired, we drove home.

Maluticaves trails are certainly some of the most scenic in the country and provides the almost unique opportunity of sleeping in a hut in the Drakensberg. We were however very disappointed with the complete lack of maintenance on the paths, neglected and disappearing markers, no water at the first hut, no gas at the second and sections so overgrown that the path has literally ceased to exist. Being used to these conditions on wilderness trips in the Drakensberg it wouldn't have been an issue but for the fact that you're paying a higher price for a developed trail and therefore expect much more from it.