Qwa-Qwa traverse (Drakensberg) Apr 2007

After a meeting I drove to Chris Dykes in Johannesburg. Chris Sommer arrived not long after and just past 14:00 Karen and Frans arrived. We intended to drive down in Frans’s VW Caddy and my car but Chris Sommer suggested that we should phone Duncan Cromarty (who was going to be in the same area) and find out if one of his group might be able to help out with sorting out vehicles after the trip. I phoned Duncan who was willing to help out – consequently we decided to drive down in the Caddy only to save the costs of a second car. We then left Chris Dykes’s place, driving through central Johannesburg. We expected the traffic for the Easter weekend to be terrible but it wasn’t all that bad and we made good progress, arriving in Harrismith at around sunset with heavy clouds and rain all around. We had dinner at Spur before driving up to Sentinel car park. We were surprised that no-one else was there for Easter and only a single bakkie indicated the presence of other people on the mountain. I phoned Duncan, who was only about 20km away, and convinced him to bring his group up to the hut as well since they were only 4 people. When they arrived we chatted a while, sorting out logistics, before going to bed.

Day 1 (6 April): We woke well before sunrise and started packing. The previous day’s clouds have cleared to a large extent and it looked to be a good day. Without rushing we made it to the chain ladders at around 9am, and carried on to the Namahadi ruins. In this time the clouds have started to build again and a cold wind was blowing across the escarpment. After a brief break at the ruins we ascended the ridge behind and started the long contour around towards Namahadi peak. At the top of the ridge I was surprised to see a band of white on the range in the far distance. However we couldn’t decide if it was snow or hail. About halfway there we sat down for an early lunch. A few drops of rain saw us scampering for rain gear and splash covers. After lunch we climbed the peak directly in front of us, Point 3245, and then picked up a track leading to Namahadi peak on the escarpment side of the next two point heights. Here we made good time again and soon we were climbing the slopes of Namahadi peak. At the top we took a few pictures but a cold wind forced us to start walking again. With heavy cloud pushing in from the east we stuck close together as we contoured the slopes above the valley north of Namahadi peak. Shortly before the three knuckles we’ve seen before from Sentinel we came to a pass which looked like it might have a cave in its upper rock bands. With the others taking a break, Chris S and I walked to either side of the pass to look for caves. Chris S found two small caves and after we had a look at it, we all agreed that the larger of the two would be perfect for the five of us. In the increasing mistiness we gathered our packs and walked to the cave. Chris S and I then took a few bottles and my Drom bag to go and look for water while the rest of the group cleaned up the cave and made it habitable. We were a bit disgusted when we found we had to walk all the way to the river in the valley to get water. Back in the cave Chris S checked his GPS and found we walked 17.5km for the day. Chris D started with our dinner which was a pre-cooked stew we only had to reheat, along with couscous. After dinner we also had a cup of tea before going to bed at around 7pm. Despite heavy cloud, thunder and lightning form the east, it never rained during the night.

Day 2 (7 April): A beautiful sunrise greeted us when we woke. The cave allowed us to pack quickly and we were away at 7am. Contouring around the attached knuckles we came across a number of passes that looked reasonable to do. Trying to make up a bit of time, I took the lead when we started descending towards the river, picked up a pony track and pushed hard for half an hour before taking a break. We had one smaller ridge to go before the big ridge preceding Kgotswane loomed up. Probably from hiking a little too much the previous day, a tendon behind my left knee was taking serious strain on the uphills and I had trouble lifting up my leg. But I took my time up the hill and came upon a very pretty sight at the top. A pinnacled cutback very similar to that of Mnweni’s. We traversed around the cutback and then finally stood before the highest ridge of our traverse. On the way towards the ridge we spotted three Basotho herdsmen running away as soon as they saw us – they must have thought we were a patrol. We carried on towards a shallow gully running up the ridge and sat down for a water break about a quarter of the way up. Building clouds have started to push onto the escarpment and the ridge behind us disappeared every now and again. After the break we pushed hard up the ridge and summitted in very cold and misty conditions. We were hoping to spot Kgotswane, only about 1.2km away, but the fog didn’t allow this. We decided to contour back to the escarpment, walking on GPS and then descended a short distance before ascending the last 500m towards Kgotswane. We were very disappointed that we couldn’t see the summit at all and had to rely on the two GPS readings to determine the location of Kgotswane, which seemed to be made up of several rocky outcrops high on the ridge. Finally agreeing on a small outcrop being Kgotswane we dropped our packs and quickly climbed to the top. Back at the packs we sat down for lunch. Halfway through lunch it started to hail and we quickly donned rain gear. It stopped soon after though. Having reached Kgotswane earlier than expected and with the heavy mist making good views from the edge impossible, we decided to head inland, down the valley, and look for the dam and old ski lodge ruins Chris S had spotted on Google Earth. Walking completely on the GPS the dam suddenly appeared out of the mist, amidst the loud clanking of goat bells and the calls of herdsmen. The dam was a very queer sight for the top of the escarpment. We took a short break, then started to walk and spotted another dam wall a little lower down in the river. Two herdsmen spotted us, shouted hello and carried on with herding – not quite what we expected! Just beyond the dams, the weather started to clear up slightly and we spotted the ski lodge ruins. At the ruins we took a number of pictures and spotted not only the fantastically deep cutback in the distance but were also a bit surprised at how close to the escarpment the river valley curved. Heavy thunder and ominously black clouds spurred us to move very quickly. We contoured away from the lodge but only made it about three quarters to the cutback before it started to rain and hail. Getting our rain gear on we finally moved right into the lip of the cutback and started to look for a cave or a spot to pitch the tent. We were unsuccessful in finding a cave but Karen found a good spot for two tents. Waiting for a slight lull in the storm we quickly put the tents up and started to cook dinner. Chris D fetched water while Chris S helped to cut up some veggies and ham. It started to rain a little harder again and I urged the other two into the tent to sort themselves out while I looked after the food. When the stew was boiling I handed it over to the two guys in the tent to add Smash before climbing in myself. We ate well in the tent, listening to the patter on the flysheet. Not long after dinner, the rain stopped. We jumped out of the tent, washed dishes, repacked the tent and made some tea before getting back inside. It started raining again soon after and carried on until the early morning hours.

Day 3 (8 April): Heavy clouds were hanging over the escarpment and the cutback when we woke, but at least it wasn't raining. We took some really good pictures of the sun rising through the high level cloud before having breakfast and breaking camp. Getting away at 7am, we picked up the trail that rounded the cutback and continued straight towards Metjhatijhane pass. Just before ascending towards the pass we stopped to collect some water as we were pretty sure that we won’t see much good water when we descended into the Caledon valley. We reached a split in the path which Chris S was able to see on Google Earth, the western path going down a steep gully before ascending back to the ridge path beyond Metjhatijhane and the other curving round the front dome before linking up with the ridge path. Since the path around the front looked easier we went for that but first we had a break at the path’s highest point, drying out tents and climbing Metjhatijhane. From the top of the peak we could clearly see the Golden Gate peaks in the distance and the huge Caledon valley we had to cross looked very daunting. Heavy clouds and fog pushed in from the east and we didn’t stay very long. Back at our packs we packed the reasonably dried tents away and carried on down the path. We still had a bit of sunshine coming around the corner below Metjhatijhane peak but as soon as we crossed over on to the northern side of the ridge the fog rolled in and we relied generally on a GPS heading towards Niberos hill. Occasionally we got glimpses through the fog and as we slowly descended out of the clouds, we saw what must’ve been the SA border post at Monontsha. The fog rolled in once more and we decided to take a break on a little saddle between the hills with a very cold northerly blowing. A shepherd and his dogs appeared out of the mist but only said hello before disappearing again completely. When we got to within about 2km of Niberos hill, the clouds started burning away and we were drenched in glorious sunshine. About 1km before Niberos we sat down for lunch, watching the locals cross the huge ridge and walk into the little villages below us. After lunch we picked up one of the many tracks traversing the eastern slopes of Niberos and carried on with these past all the dwellings, finally ending up in a very strange bluegum and pine forest on the eastern and northern slopes. With lush meadows peeking out between the trees and goat bells ringing out, it felt like we were in the Alps! Only seeing the Golden Gate peaks occasionally through the trees, we had to make a decision at one point about going through the forests rather than around it. We picked up a very distinct track running down a spur towards the road but got a shock when the path ended right on top of a sandstone cliff. Traversing to the west we found a rocky track leading very steeply down a gully and past some dwellings to the road. Happy to have a way down we followed this path but Chris D struggled with an ITB tendon and had to take his time down. Finally down the escarpment ridge we walked past a couple of huts before exiting onto the road coming in from Monontsha. We followed the road for about 800m, aiming to cross the Caledon at the lowest point of the road where we earlier saw a path going up a spur towards Golden Gate. It was getting a bit late in the afternoon (15:00) and we still had a long time to go when we crossed the Caledon, back into South Africa. Just on the other side of the river, which really was barely a stream, Chris D discovered that he didn’t have his camera with him. Thinking that he must’ve put it down when we took a short break in the gully descending from the sandstone spur, he had to run back to go look for it. The rest of us took a welcome break below the spur and waited for about 40 minutes before Chris returned – without his camera. We felt very sorry for Chris and having gone through a similar experience before, I knew exactly how he felt. But he accepted the loss and we started climbing up the spur, well behind schedule. However, we unexpectedly found the path we’ve seen from across the valley to be very good and gained altitude very fast, emerging onto a high plateau, about a third of the way up towards the Golden Gate border. The time was now fast approaching 5pm, heavy clouds were building again and a stiff breeze was blowing from the east. We didn’t really have enough water to camp but we eventually decided not to risk carrying on into Golden Gate as it probably meant walking in the dark. So we pitched tents right on the spur, not too distant from a nearby, unmapped trig beacon, and while Chris D started cooking dinner, Chris S and I once more walked down a gully to fetch water. The little water we did find was reasonably clear but it was obvious that the area was heavily used by cattle so we decided to boil water needed for cooking and chlorinate drinking water. Back at the tents, the weather was closing in and when we sat down to dinner of pasta, tuna and cheese, it had started to drip. With the drips becoming more regular, we finished our meal and jumped into the tent. Throughout the night it kept on raining off and on but we were hoping for a clear morning.

Day 4 (9 April): Unfortunately our wishes were not granted. Very heavy clouds were all around us when we got up just after 5am. Being about an hour behind schedule we started packing in the dark and as we ate breakfast it started dripping again. This necessitated packing up very wet tents, but at least it was our last day ahead. We were treated to a spectacular display of a flaming sunrise as I’ve never seen before and although we never actually saw the sun, the glowing orange, red and yellow colours on the clouds were something to behold. At around 06:15 we started hiking and continued on the path up towards the ridge. It was cold and very wet and soon my feet were sloshing in my shoes. We made good progress up the ridge though and when we got to the top, climbed the fence into Golden Gate. It was 07:40 when we started descending the path towards the road. Chris D was still struggling with his knee so we took it fairly slow. About halfway down we sat for a brief break at a stream, taking off a few layers of clothing as it had started to become a little uncomfortable. Just as we had done this it started to drip once more. Luckily the sun finally emerged about half an hour later and when we arrived at the hut we were able to break for a while drying out some clothes and warming up in the sun. Then we packed up, walked out the last few kms to the stables and got in contact with the Cromartys. Unfortunately Duncan’s car broke down and he asked us to drive back with Michael Stiller because he needed to get his car towed. Michael then drove the Caddy around while the five of us had lunch at the hotel and headed home.