Hong Kong Nov 2011

Links

• List of birds

13 Nov 2011
After 13 sleepless hours, our plane banked over a hazy Hong Kong and landed softly at Hong Kong International Airport. The queue at Immigration was even worse than I’ve experienced in Johannesburg but when I finally passed this obstacle, my bag was already on the belt. A quick walk to the bus terminal and I got a ticket to Kowloon and waited for less than 2 minutes for the bus. Just after 2pm I got off in central Kowloon (Tsim Sha Tsui) and walked to where I was hoping my guesthouse would be. I struggled a little to find the entrance to New Lucky House but when I finally did, it was not difficult locating my guesthouse among the 30 or so in the building. The owner had my reservation in hand and checking in and finding my room went quickly. But wow, it must be said that space is at a serious premium in Hong Kong. I’ve slept in bigger and better places in India. This place measured 2x3m – a double bed literally fills half the room. A stand contains a flat screen TV (with Chinese channels only) and another smaller one a kettle. A 1x2m cubicle contains a basin, toilet and hand shower – there’s no shower stall, you just shower over the toilet (holding the shower head with one hand, washing with the other) and then have to dry off everything (including the toilet) after your shower. But there’s aircon and its clean, and for R300 a night its not too bad. I later found cheaper hotels going for about R150 a night but these tended to specialize in hourly rates…
I first caught up on some sleep, then by about 4pm went out and explored Temple street market, bought an Octopus card (transport card), walked through Kowloon City Park and took the Star Ferry across Victoria harbor to gawk at all the skyscrapers lining Central Hong Kong. I walked back along Nathan road, dodging thousands of people on the sidewalk and finally managed to squeeze into a McDonalds for a cheap dinner (Big Mac, chips and coke for R20) before heading back to the hotel.

14 Nov 2011
The main goal for the day was getting a bird field guide for Hong Kong. I managed to find the building the Hong Kong Bird Watching Society is housed in yesterday, but only on my third attempt (after 10pm) did I find the place open. I was welcomed with heart-warming friendliness and immediately got the book I was looking for. Then I took the MTR (tube/underground) and tram to reach Hong Kong Wetland Park, a much advertised 60 ha artificial wetland with education and entertainment facilities. Since it was now a week day there were not as many people around but still about as many as you would find in South Africa’s large botanical gardens over weekends. Although only about 25 degrees C, humidity hovered around 100% and bird watching was a sweaty affair. However, the hides were well designed (with fixed telescopes, first aid kits and fans) and offered cooler places from where to watch birds. I picked up my first two lifers, Japanese white-eye and Masked laughing-thrush in some scrub next to the paths. At the mudflat hide I got Black-faced spoonbill and Northern shoveler as well as a few other common birds I’ve seen elsewhere. On my way back to the exit I also managed to ID Yellow-bellied prinia and Long-tailed shrike. I made my way back to the hotel with sore feet and took a nap until around 6pm. After a quick dinner I explored the Ladies Market in Mong Kok before taking the MTR to the Avenue of Stars at 8pm where I stood watching the Symphony of Lights show from the promenade. With the Central Hong Kong skyscrapers all lit up and spotlights and lasers piercing the night sky, it’s something to behold. Then it was time for bed.

15 Nov 2011
The niggle I had in my throat since the flight has turned into a sore throat, runny nose and blocked sinuses. Very annoying. Even so, around 8am I took the MTR to Central station on Hong Kong Island and then caught a bus to Stanley at the southern tip of the island, hoping to catch a ferry from here to Po Toi island. Unfortunately, Lonely Planet let me down and not only was there no ferry leaving for Po Toi on Tuesdays, I couldn’t even find the ferry pier. But I got to stroll the Stanley market which was much much tamer than Temple street in Kowloon. The shopkeepers were not pushy at all and it was much more pleasant to browse. However, prices were not brilliant so my cash remained safely tucked away. I did spend a bit on fish and chips, basically to give my feet a bit of a rest, and then headed back to the guesthouse. I was feeling quite lousy at this point but after some Myprodol, Drixine and a 2-hour doze, I felt much better. In the afternoon I browsed the sparkly world of haute couture in Harbour City and Ocean Terminal and also hunted for bargains in Granville street. Unfortunately I still could not find anything that was better priced that what I’ve seen in Temple street and the Ladies’ Market so decided that when I do spend some money it will be at these two markets. It was getting late so I stopped off at a convenience store and stocked up on some water, fruit and instant noodles before heading for my much cooler guesthouse bedroom.

16 Nov 2011
I didn’t sleep well. Blocked sinuses kept me up throughout the night and when my alarm went off at 05:45 I killed it and decided to sleep in. When I finally did wake up I had a bout of upset tummy. I stayed in bed until noon before I finally felt well enough to go for a walk. First I trawled the Ladies’ Market, the photographic shops street and the sports goods street but couldn’t find anything I was looking for. I then went to the shop where I first saw luggage advertised and after a bit of haggling, got a decent price on a 3-piece set of luggage. This I hauled back to the guesthouse before venturing out again, this time to Hong Kong Island. At the Wan Chai Computer Centre I found a nice gift for Nicola (digital photoframe) but neither of the two camping/hiking stores recommended by Lonely Planet seemed to exist anymore. I ended the day at Times Square (yes, Hong Kong’s got one as well) where I wanted to do a bit of shopping in the only proper large supermarket I’ve seen so far. The price tags were a shocker though: milk, R30 a litre, a 125g packet of chips, R21, and so on. So I walked to the fruit section hoping to find some fresh stuff a bit cheaper. But I was in for a bigger shock: a small cardboard tray, the size of a notebook computer with a few different fruit in (apples, pears, peaches) went for R340 and a single small cantaloupe (spanspek), R520!!! I calmly put my basket down and walked out empty handed. Back at the guesthouse I ate some R5 instant noodles, and a R1 banana I bought around the corner for dinner.

17 Nov 2011
I was determined to go to Tai Po Kau today and despite a sleepless night, I got up at 05:45 and felt better than I did yesterday. After a quick breakfast I caught the MTR and two interchanges later, the 74A bus. I got off at the Chuen Wan Yuen stop almost directly opposite Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve and then walked up the steep concrete road to where the Nature trail started. It was overcast and drizzly but still hot and humid and my shirt was quickly soaked. Initially the beautiful forest was very quite, but after I turned off onto the Blue trail, I started hearing birds calling and chirping. They were bloody difficult to see though and the gloom didn’t help at all. I failed to identify a single bird until I was past halfway on the trail. Then suddenly I found a bird party with enough birds for me to catch glimpses of quite a few features. I ID’d Mugimaki flycatcher, Vinous-throated parrotbill, Black-naped oriole and Scarlet minivet. It really is a magnificent forest to walk through despite the regular air and road traffic noises filtering through. I also added Chestnut bulbul, Japanese white-eye, Oriental magpie robin, Yellow-cheeked and Great tits and a group of White-rumped munias before I reached the end of the trail. I then hopped on the first bus that came past with the right route number on it and asked the driver if he went past Tai Po Market. He nodded his head and I sat down. Twenty minutes later it was obvious that we weren’t going anywhere near Tai Po Market when the driver reached the end of his round. But he kindly helped me onto another bus (after quite a few hand signals and slow pronunciation of Tai Po Market) which eventually dropped me off at the Tai Po Market. I didn’t realize there was an actual market as well since I was referring to the MTR railway station by that name. So now I was completely lost. But I took a quick stroll through the market and when I got through to the other side I saw an MTR signpost. I followed the signposts diligently and soon recognized the area and was back on track. Another two interchanges on the MTR later, I was back at the guesthouse. After a lunch and a quick shower I snoozed for a couple of hours before heading into town again. Unfortunately the drizzle I experienced earlier at Tai Po Kau has moved over Kowloon and few of the regulars were out on Temple Street. I did buy one souvenir I liked and then also made a small purchase at the Jade market before getting some dinner and heading back to the guesthouse.

18 Nov 2011
Another early morning start. Just after 7am I caught the Peak Tram towards the top of Victoria Peak on Hong Kong Island. It was dark with heavy mist and seemed unlikely I would spot any birds. But I set out on the trail circling Victoria Peak just below 400m amsl. The tarred track stays at the same level in its entirety so it’s a very easy 3.5km stroll with supposedly some of the best views of Hong Kong. I soon learned the track is in fact a single lane car road and gives access to a few mansions built on the hill. About a third of the way I came upon a small deck with open views over the forest. The mist has lifted ever so slightly and I was finally able to take out the binoculars and saw White-rumped munia, Red-whiskered bulbul, Black-winged cuckooshrike and Common tailorbird. Before finishing the trail I also added Black-throated and Greater necklaced laughing-thrushes as lifers. Back at the tram terminus I went for a bite to eat, hoping that the mist will lift. After resting for almost in hour in the cool of the restaurant, the mist did start to lift a little and I did another circuit of the peak. Soon after I got back though it seemed like the mist would lift even further and as I haven’t been able yet to get decent pictures of the Hong Kong skyline from up here, I did a third circuit of the peak, this time getting a few nice pictures through the clearing fog. Back at the bottom I took the rest of the afternoon off before going out again around 5pm, hunting for souvenirs and gifts. By 18:30 my purchases were made and I headed back for some dinner and a decent rest.

19 Nov 2011
I slept late this morning (08:00) and then spent 3 hours watching TV, packing up and cleaning up. At 11am I caught the train to Yuen Long and then a short bus ride to the Mai Po Nature Reserve entrance. The 20 minute walk-in was hot but not without merit as I saw three lifers: Siberian stonechat, Crested myna and Blue magpie. At the WWF conservation centre I checked in for my tour and then ate some lunch while I waited for the tour to start. At 13:30 we were about 15 people and ready to go. Our guide led us out on the concrete paths that cris-cross the entire reserve. There was a lot of talking and little walking in the beginning and since it was all in Cantonese, very boring. But I still added some birds as we went: the standard egrets, Common kingfisher, Northern shoveler, Northern pintail, Osprey and Greater spotted eagle. We eventually made it to the floating boardwalk across the mangroves – a rather ingenious construction of heavy wood bars on cross beams on top of 44 gallon drums spaced about 5m apart- the whole walkway actually floats on top of the tide as it ebbs and flows! We reached the mudflat hide which looks out onto the biggest mudflats I’ve ever seen – seemingly stretching all the way to China! Unfortunately the tide was a long way out and the only thing we could really see were millions of mudskippers and some very far-off Eurasian curlews, egrets and pond herons. We made our way back around 16:30 and walked past a fresh water pond with pretty water lilies before finally going back. I shared a taxi with two locals back to Yuen Long MTR station and then it was a quick train ride back to the guesthouse. I took a quick shower and gulped down an ice coffee before packing up and checking out. I walked down to the bus stop where I waited for the bus. And waited. And waited. I started to get a bit worried and wondered if I had enough money left to catch a taxi. Just as I was about to flag a cab, a sales lady at a jewelry store by the bus stop walked over and asked if she could help. She explained that this particular bus only came at midnight and I had to walk three blocks further to another bus stop to catch the right bus. Slightly annoyed by the bus schedule information but very grateful for the unsolicited help, I walked over to the other bus stop and waited about 5 minutes before my bus showed up. Half an hour later I was at the airport and two trains and 15 minutes later, checked in and eating dinner in the United Club lounge. The flight was as awful as any cattle class long-haul flight is but I arrived home in one piece and very happy to see my wife.

A wonderful trip! I truly hate cities as a rule, but wow, Hong Kong is everything (all the good things) I expected. Here’re ten things I learned/decided/confirmed during this trip:

1. There’s a lot of people in China
2. Hiking trails in Hong Kong are brilliant and absolutely worth it. There are some surprisingly long ones (70km plus) that I would love to try out next time.
3. Hong Kong cuisine is fantastic, but expensive to try out in a restaurant. Stick to supermarkets and McDonalds if your budget’s small.
4. No matter what kind of accommodation you’re used to in South Africa, be prepared to spend about 5 times for the same kind of bedroom in HK.
5. Shopping is. Just. Wow. Variety, quantity, pricing (even quality if you’re prepared to spend a bit more). A true paradise for the rich and stingies (like me) alike.
6. Transport infrastructure in HK is cheap, extremely efficient and easy to use. Comparatively, the Gautrain and its supporting infrastructure is truly a joke. I would be embarrassed to explain the Gautrain system to Hong Kongers.
7. Access for people with disabilities is universal. This means there’s a lot of cripples and otherwise disabled people out on the street – it makes for some interesting dodging techniques when running between MTR stations.
8. South Africans don’t have the first idea of service delivery. Or the second or third for that matter.
9. Africa will not be the next super power.
10. Did I mention there’re a lot of people in China?