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Friday, 6 April
After spending the night at Nicola’s parentes, we left at 5am, and drove without incident through fairly heavy Easter traffic to Golden Gate. We arrived at about 10am, checked in at Reception and then drove down to the stables where we parked the car. It was a very pleasant day and with such a short walk to the hut before us, we walked slowly and birded along the way, picking up Bokmakierie, Drakensberg prinia, African red-eyed bulbul, Yellow-billed duck, Ground woodpecker, Red-winged starling and Cape rock-thrush. We arrived at the hut before noon but had an early bite to eat before snoozing the rest of the afternoon. Just before 4pm another couple showed up after completing the normal Day 1 of the Ribbok trail. An early dinner was followed by early bed.
Saturday, 7 April
We rose at 5am, had some oats, fruit and tea for breakfast, packed up all our stuff and left just before 6am. Hiding my pack with all our camping and sleeping gear in the bushes about 50m up the track, we only carried Nicola's pack with water, lunch and rain gear. As the sun started glinting off the highest rock bands of Ribbok kop, we turned off the path about 1km from the hut and started climbing up a spur leading to the Swartkop ridge. We made steady progress up the ridge and had our first rest for the day at 2265m, halfway up the spur. Nicola had carried the pack up to this point so I took over as the gradient steepened. As the ridge climbed higher we started angling off towards Snow hill and finally gained the main Swartkop ridge on the saddle just below Snow hill. It was about 09:30 so we had gained a fair amount of height but now the tricky bit started. First climbing slowly higher as we traversed the norther flanks of Snow Hill, we reached a prominent buttress between Snow hill and Ribbok kop and climbed just below its foot onto the northern flank of the saddle between the two summits. The going was tough as the slopes were steep and the grass tall, making it very difficult to see where we were walking. A short but exposed climb up a boulder got us onto the grassy slope in between the second and third rock bands – we were almost there! The gradient on the grass slope was steep and a sheer drop below made for slow and careful walking, but just after 10:30 we reached the steep gully breaking through the last two rock bands. Holding onto thorny plants and spiky grasses, we scrambled up the gully, easily at an angle greater than 50 degrees. Finally reaching the top of the fourth rock band, it was an easy scramble for the last 100m or so to finally reach the summit of Ribbok kop (2829m) at 11:15. Wow! What a view from the top! The entire Golden Gate and eastern Free State ranges to the north, the Caledon valley, Drakensberg and Malutis to the South, and my nemesis conquered after at least 5 attempts – it was fantastic to be up there! But we had a very long way to go still, so after 15 minutes rest, a few mouths full of Game, an apple and half a tomato each, we left. The climb down the gully was tough but we climbed down steadily and soon broke through the bottom rock band. There was still some tough down climbing on the steep upper slopes until we reached the main ridge leading down into the valley where the Ribbok Trail’s path ran. At about 2pm we finally reached the path and much easier walking, but by now the legs and feet were sore so we kept a moderate pace until we reached the hut and our hidden bag some time after 3pm. A large group of hikers had arrived to occupy the hut so we stayed just long enough for a quick splash of water in the face, saddled the bags and then walked out the 3km back to the stables. At 16:30 we were back, drove up to Reception and booked a campsite for the night. We decided not to waste time with the tent and just slept in the car after beetroot, Salticrax and tea for dinner.
Sunday, 8 April
A few drops of rain roused us from our sleep and since dawn had already begun, we quickly packed up the car and did some birding on the way out to Harrismith. It was blustery with heavy cloud moving in so few birds were around. Even so, Long-tailed widow, Drakensberg prinia, Cape rock-thrush, Ground woodpecker, a lone Black harrier, Grey crowned crane and Southern bald ibis were all seen before we left the park. In Harrismith we had a quick Wimpy breakfast before birding the lark and crane circuits, picking up a few common birds but also African snipe, Botha's and Spike-heeled larks, Black heron and a whole field full of Blue cranes. Around 2pm we checked into our accommodation and spent the remainder of the day trying to move as little as possible - the muscles have stiffened up nicely and walking was a painful affair.
Monday, 9 April
Hoping to miss most of the Easter traffic, we left before 7am and drove comfortably and without problems back home, first collecting Nicola's cats at her parents and then arriving back in Middelburg at noon.
It's been more than 10 years since I first saw Ribbok kop and thought it would be magnificent to climb. Several attempts have been thwarted by weather, illness and laziness, but now, finally, I've done it! And what a great peak to do, with a 360 view all around, unbelievably good weather, and Nicola making it to the top as well - a truly memorable day in the mountains!
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